Abe Lebewohl |
MUSEUM OF JEWISH HERITAGE
Second Avenue
Deli
Is
Kosher In The Rye
Story and
Photos by Tim Boxer
 O
mark the 50th anniversary of the legendary Second
Avenue Deli, the
Museum
of
Jewish Heritage
gathered an eclectic group from salami society to expound on the
virtues of this gastronomical haven at
Second Avenue and Tenth Street in Manhattan’s
East Village.
Steve Cohen said that working there as
general manager for 22 years was like Damon Runyon:
“Everybody has an Abie story.”
Alex Witchel, a New York Times
Style section scribe, said Abe Lebewohl, founder of this
venerable pastrami palace, knocked on her door 11 years ago to
make a delivery. Her older son had his bar mitzvah and Abe
insisted on delivering the food himself.
“I remember thinking this is the closest
we’re ever going to get to Santa Claus.”
Her husband Frank Rich, The
Times’ associate editor, said he grew up in Washington,
D.C., “the most gentile town in America.”
Jack Lebewohl
at dedication of memorial park across the street. |
“Second Avenue is the last practitioner of the art – the best deli in the
world.” This from a man who never had salami and eggs until he
was 40.
Drew Nieporent, who operates trendy
eateries in
Soho
and Tribeca, talked about Abe’s futile trip to
Moscow
to establish a branch of his kosher deli.
He came for an appointment with Boris
Yeltsin. He waited. And waited. Finally the secretary opened
the door to see if he boss was ready. Abe looked in and saw vodka
bottles all over the office. There was the prime minister of
Russia
asleep in his chair.
Comedian Judy Gold was full of
questions, like it was Passover night.
“If you’re wearing a toupee, do you still
need a yarmulke?”
She had a question for Diane Kassner,
who’s been a deli waitress for 18years: “How is the stuffed
breast of veal served?”
“On a plate,” Kassner replied.
Second Avenue
Deli |
Abe’s daughter Sharon, who operates
the restaurant with Abe’s younger brother Jack, recalled
a gasoline shortage in the ‘70s. “Most restaurants couldn’t
afford to make deliveries, but my father delivered his food by
horse and buggy.”
Art D’Lugoff, former owner of the
Village Gate, described Abe as a whirling Dervish in the kitchen.
“He was too trusting, though. He trusted
people because he loved people. He should have had a guard in his
van.”
Eight years ago Abe was shot and killed in
his van on the way to the bank. The murderous robbers were never
found.
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